Welcome to Our Workshop!
Take a virtual tour of the TWO Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal shops and learn about all the tools we use every day and recommend to our subscribers!
- If you’re dreaming of the ultimate space, our “Main Workshop” will be right up your alley.
- If you’re a small shop guy on a budget, scroll down the page to see our “Budget Workshop” with all its budget tools and home-built solutions.
- And don’t forget to meet the folks who make up the Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal team at the very bottom of the page!
The shops are always changing, so come back and visit frequently. This is a great place to “sit back and have a cold one, because you’ve earned it, my friend!”
Now, let’s take a tour of…
THE HAND TOOL WORKSHOP
The hand tool area is my favorite part of the workshop! This is where all the old-timey tools are kept including all the hand planes, chisels all the other razor sharp toys! It’s one of the most visible parts of the shop since it serves as a backdrop for the narration in many of our videos.
We get a lot of questions about this part of the workshop. No, I don’t use all those planes regularly. The wooden moulding planes are fun to use occasionally, but the only ones that see regular use are some of the iron bench planes. Sorry to spoil the mystery!
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This is not even close to a full list of the hand tools I own. I am concentrating on the ones I use most and will add more later. I often have several versions of a tool, both new and antique (collectable).
Numbered Bench Planes- I have several sets of numbered bench planes, often with different iron (cutter) configurations for different purposes. Nobody needs this many. I use the WoodRiver planes the most because they are of excellent quality. But I also love to use my antique Stanley planes when I’m feeling sentimental.
- #1 (Nobody really knows for sure what this little plane is for.)
- #2 Smoother (My smallest smoother is too rare to use.)
- #3 Smoother (Not used much)
- #4 Smoother (The most common smoothing plane size)
- #4-1/2 Smoother (I prefer the extra width and weight of this smoother.)
- #5 Jack Plane (I keep a cambered iron in one of these for heavy planning.)
- #5-1/4 Jack Plane (An extra-narrow plane for rough work. Not very common.)
- #5-1/2 Jack Plane (My favorite plane! I use it for all sorts of things.)
- #6 Fore Plane (For when a Jack is too short but a jointer is too long. Not used much.)
- #7 Jointer Plane (A medium jointer that’s good for edges and large surfaces.)
- #8 Jointer Plane (The largest jointer plane. I don’t use it very often.)
Other Numbered Bench Planes-
- #10 Scrub Plane (A hard working plane for when you have to hog off a lot of wood.)
- HP-12 Bridge City Dual Angle Plane (A work of art with interchangeable irons for many uses.)
- #62 Low Angle Jack Plane (A great all-purpose plane. Excels for figured grain.)
Block Planes- I have several block planes, but hey all come down to large or small versions of standard or low angle planes. My favorites are the Bridge City versions, followed by the WoodRiver set. But again, the antique Stanleys are sentimental users.
- Bridge City HP-9 v2 Dual Angle Block Plane (Standard and low angles in one plane. Clever fence system.)
- WoodRiver standard angle block plane
- WoodRiver low angle block plane
- Bridge City HP-8 Mini BLock Plane (Great size, plus unique depth skids)
- Veritas Skew Block Plane (Great for working across end grain. Fence for rabbeting)
- Stanley #101 Mini Block Plane
- Stanley #102 small block plane (No frills, but I like this old thing.)
- Stanley #91-1/2 standard block plane (Meh…)
- Stanley #60-1/2 low angle block plane
- Craftsman version of the Stanley #65 block plane (I kind of like the knuckle joint cap)
- Stanley #60-1/2 low angle block plane (I like that’s it’s narrow.)
Combination Planes- These can be fun to use, but are mostly fun to collect. They can be very finicky to setup and require some finesse to use. The most difficult part of collecting is finding all the parts!
- Stanley #45 all in one plane (I have three of these, each a different type.)
- Stanley #46 dado plane
- Stanley #48 tongue and groove plane
- Stanley #50 beading plane (A very early model)
Joinery Planes- Of these, the shoulder planes get the most use, followed by the router planes. These are essential joinery tools, in my opinion. I prefer the WoodRiver versions because they are very precise. But I also keep the Stanley versions as a collector.
- #91 small shoulder plane
- #92 medium shoulder plane
- #93 large shoulder plane
- Veritas large router plane
- Veritas small router plane
- Stanley #71 router plane
- Stanley #75 Bill nose rabbet plane (An adorable little plane)
- Stanley #78 Filletster and rabbet plane
- Stanley #98 Side-rabbet plane (Still looking for the matching #99)
- WoodRiver side-rabbet plane (cuts in both directions)
Specialty Planes- sentimental users.
- Stanley #113 Compass Plane (for planing concave/convex surfaces)
- WoodRiver Chisel plane (Great for trimming dowels, cleaning clue from corners, etc.)
- Stanley #80 scraper holder
- Stanley #12 veneer scraper
Wood-bodied Planes- These planes, which are lined up on the shelves behind me in many videos, draw a lot of attention and questions. No, they are not all the same. And no, I don’t have even close to a complete set (if such a thing is even attainable). They into several categories, each with graduated sizes. Some cut complex profiles like router bits. Others can be combined to create any complex profile you wish. Still others are intended for making joints or for other specific uses. These planes are pieces of history, some dating back to the mid-1700’s. I use many of them occasionally, but their main purpose is for teaching about and preserving the history of our craft. Wood-bodied Moulding Planes- These cut decorative profiles. Traditionally, complex crown mouldings were made by combining a series of basic shapes, each cut with a separate plane. Later, dedicated planes were made to cut complex profiles. Here I am listing some of the “sets” that I own in graduated sizes. I obviously can’t list all the unique profiles.
- Hollow Planes- Feature concave soles for creating convex shapes of various sizes
- Round Planes- Feature convex soles for creating concave shapes of various sizes
- Side-Bead Planes- Came in various sizes to create a common beaded edge profile
- Ovolo planes- Came in various sizes to create a convex profile with a fillet on each side. Often used in window sashes or for table edges.
Wood-bodied Joinery Planes- These planes are typically used for making joints such as rabbets, dados and grooves.
- Rabbet planes- These have straight cutters and come in various widths. (May also be sued to create mouldings)
- Skewed rabbet/dado planes- These have angled cutters for working across end grain and come in various widths.
- Matched planes- These come in pairs for cutting tongue and groove joinery
- Plow Planes- Complex planes with a fence that moves on a pair of arms. Used to cut grooves and rabbets.
- Snipes Bill Planes- For starting rabbets and other uses.
Wood-bodied Specialty Planes- These are some of the antique special-use planes I own
- Toothing Planes- Feature an iron cutter with fine teeth on the edge that’s held almost perpendicular tot he surface for scraping veneers and highly figured wood grain.
- Scrub Planes- Feature heavily curved (cambered) irons and wide mouths for removing a lot of wood quickly. I like the old German style with the horn-like handle on the front.
- Coffin Smoothers- Common old-world smoothing planes shaped much like a coffin.
- Wood-bodied jointer- I have an enormous solid wood jointer plane that can be used to straighten a long edge, or fastened upside-down in a vise so small parts may be passed over the iron.
Chisels- I have a lot of chisels. More than anyone needs. There is some value to having different sets for different purposes, with different bevel angles. And there are some specialty chisels worth owning too. But the average woodworker only needs a handful of chisels. This is simply a list of the favorites in my shop. Premium Bench Chisels-
- Narex Richter Chisels- My favorite chisels. These are as good as the top premium brands. Cryogenically hardened steel takes a very keen edge and holds it a long time.
- Stanley Sweetheart Chisels- These are the new versions of the old 750’s. They have great balance and feel. They were my favorites before I discovered the Richters.
- IBC Chisels- I have two of these I got from Rob Cosman. Excellent quality. I like how the handles screw off for easier sharpening.
Good Budget Bench Chisels-
- Narex Bevel-Edge Chisels- I really like Narex tools. They are the best value for the price out there. The “premium” versions have nicer handles, but the same steel as the “Profi” versions.
- Bailey Chisels- Made by Stanley. Decent chisels that can take some abuse. Sometimes come in a nice leather roll.
Antique bench chisels-
- Stanley Everlasting Chisels- I’ve collected a full set of these circa-1910 chisels. They feature steel shafts that connect the blade with a cap on the end of the handle. They can take a beating!
- Stanley 750’s- These are some of the best chisels ever made (before modern steel). Lie Nielsen chisels are modeled after them. I am still working on a full set.
Specialty Chisels-
- Crane-Neck Chisels- For when a bent chisel is really useful (flush-trimming, joinery, etc.)
- Mortising Chisels- Uniquely designed for hand-chopping mortises. WAY better than regular chisels for this purpose.
- Corner Chisel- Great for squaring up the corners of large mortises.
- Japanese Dovetail Chisels- For getting into the corners between dovetails
- Skew Chisels- For getting into tough to reach places. Great for dovetailing.
- Firmer Chisels- These are tough, thick chisels for pounding on.
- Paring chisels- These are for joinery such as dados and grooves when you need a long reach and a flat back.
Other Chisels-
- Fujikawa-Okyo Japanese Chisels- I am slowly becoming a fan of Japanese chisels…
- Narex Butt Chisels- Sometimes you need short chisels
Hand carving tools-
- Narex carving sets (good, affordable starter sets)
- Pfeil carving gouges (higher priced, Swedish steel)
- Narex 500g (17oz) brass carving mallet (for fine wood carving)
- Narex 250g round beech carving mallet
- Narex 600g round beech carving mallet
Hand Saws-
- Rob Cosman dovetail saw (Expensive but the best cutting dovetail saw I have ever owned!)
- Veritas Dovetail Saws (I own a 14tpi and a 20tpi version. They are a little light but great for the price.)
- Thomas Flinn PAX 10-inch Gents Saw (A good, affordable option for fine dovetails)
- Veritas carcass saws (I own a rip and a crosscut versions. They are excellent saws for hand work.)
- Japanese mini Dozuki pull saw (For delicate cutting and trimming of dowels, etc.)
- Zona Olsen 24tpi fine razor saw (For delicate cuts. Has a stiffer spine than a Dozuki. Nice saw.)
- Eclipse coping saw
- Gyokucho Razorsaw flush cutting single edge saw (a really well made saw for flush-cutting stuff)
Mallets and Hammers-
- Rob Cosman round hardwood mallet (I use this for dovetailing and light mortising)
- Narex 500g (17oz) brass carving mallet (for fine wood carving)
- Narex 250g round beech carving mallet
- Narex 600g round beech carving mallet
- Narex 460g beech joiners mallet
- Narex 650g beech joiners mallet
Grinding and power sharpening-
- Rikon 1/2HP slow grinder with 80 & 350 mega-square CBN Wheels (for rough-grinding woodworking tools)
- Rikon 1HP slow grinder with 180 radius-edge and 600 mega-square CBN wheels (for rough-grinding turning tools)
- Kodiak grinder tool rest/sharpening jig system (one base for each grinder, plus one set of accessories.)
- Tormek T-8 wet sharpener (for day to day power-sharpening)
- Tormek turning tool jig set
- Tormek straight-edged tool jig set
- Tormek SJ-250 Japanese Water Wheel (for knives and carving tools)
- Tormek extra fine 1200-grit diamond wheel
- Tormek fine 600-grit diamond wheel
- Tormek coarse 360-grit diamond wheel
- Tormek sharpening station cabinet
- Worksharp 3000 tool sharpener (used to flatten chisel backs)
- CBN discs for Worksharp 3000
Continue your tour or the Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal Facility:
- Our “Main Workshop” is where most of our woodworking tutorials and project courses are built and filmed. It contains the tools we use every day- our favorites. In the back you will also find our office with much of the computer and camera equipment we use to make our videos, and you can meet the SNWJ team!
- Our “Budget Workshop” (also known as the “corner workshop”) is a specially reserved space that’s roughly the size of a one-car garage (14X14 feet). This is the sort of shop I worked in for many years and that many of our viewers work in every day. It includes some great recommendations for relatively inexpensive tools that are still of good quality. It also contains many of the homemade tools we have designed and built over the years.
- Our “Hand Tool Workshop” is a small area on the east side of the main workshop. This is where all of the old-timey tools are kept. If you are looking to go wireless, you really should check this area out!
The shops are always changing, so come back and visit frequently. This is a great place to “sit back and have a cold one, because you’ve earned it, my friend!”
And for more tool reviews and recommendations, check out our “Cool Tools” series!